Entry #37 - Building Tristar's Panzer IV Ausf. C

This is last big step in the build. I have several minor little issues to clean up before I start panting this beast. I had to do some research to figure out how the Germans attached the bin to the Ausf. C turret. Below are couple of good pics showing the bracket and then a drawing showing the actual layout. 

I decided to scratch build the brackets out of spare PE fret and styrene.  Basically, I cut an unused section from the Eduard PE fret that was the approximate thickness.  Then I bent the piece around the hook.  I traced it onto thin styrene, cut it out and sanded it to fit. I did have to sand the hook a bit to get it to fit correctly. 

I then added the bolt detail and trimmed to size.  When gluing the brackets onto the hooks I had to make sure the angle stay correct.  Lastly I added the bracket that is placed on the back of turret (Eduard was nice enough to include this in their PE fret).  

 

Entry #36 - Building Tristar's Panzer IV Ausf. C

The final tweak for the Tristar Ausf. C.  There are drainage holes that ring the cupola.   

I used a cupola from a Dragon kit which has indentations for the drainage holes.  I lined up the hinges and marked the locations.

I used the smallest drill bit that I have and went around drilling each one out.  Some minor clean up and I'm done.

 

Entry #35 - Building Tristar's Panzer IV Ausf. C

The checklist is shirking and I am just about to the painting stage.  Yeah!  The last "big" project is the turret bin.  Since the Ausf. C did not come standard with the bin I had to steal one from my Dragon Ausf. E kit.  However, the Germans attached the bin differently on the Ausf. C (and D) version, so some work is needed to get it to fit.

Below is how it looks stock and it will just not work (note, if you have a Dragon Ausf. D that you are willing to sacrifice, then this is already done for you).

The only area that needs to be worked is the top part on the bin that touches the turret.  In order to make sure I kept my shape I designed a highly specialized tool (see below).

I only had to sanded the middle area until it fit correctly.  Below shows how much I to take out in order to get it to work.  Also notice that hardly any of the sides were sanaded.

I then added some plastic sheet to the inside portion.

Lastly, I installed the PE latches.  Part 1 is done and now I need to work on the holders which need to be custom built (again, Dragon Ausf. D kits supplies this part also).

Entry #34 - Building Tristar's Panzer IV Ausf. C

It's antenna time!  Based on past history, antenna's and I do not get along at all.  Whether it be a tank, plane or spaceship my hand will hit it at a minimum of five times and break it twice.  So I have learned to put it on last and if possible, use brass rod.  Does not solve the problem 100% but cuts down on accidents.

Below is a picture of the antenna from an early Panzer IV.

 

This the Tristar's antenna, not bad but I decided to tweak it a bit.  

 

Below has the PE parts added and brass rod.  

 

 

  

IS-2 Russian Tank documentary (in Russian)

A good, short documentary on the IS-2 in Russian but there on subtitles. 

The IS-122 prototype replaced the IS-85, and began mass production as the IS-2. The 85 mm guns could be reserved for the new T-34-85 medium tank, and some of the IS-1s built were rearmed before leaving the factory, and issued as IS-2s. 

The main production model was the IS-2, with the powerful A-19. It was slightly lighter and faster than the heaviest KV model 1942 tank, with thicker front armour and a much-improved turret design. The tank could carry thicker armour than the KV series, while remaining lighter, due to the better layout of the armour envelope. The KV's armour was less well-shaped and featured heavy armour even on the rear, while the IS series concentrated its armour at the front. The IS-2 weighed about the same as a German Panther and was lighter than the German heavy Tiger tank series, and was slightly lower than either. 

Entry #33 - Building Tristar's Panzer IV Ausf. C

I added the rear Notek light.  I also decided to move the rear slop lamp from the side of the muffler to the fender.  It seems many of the early Panzer IV's had this modification.  I had to rework the bracket by drilling a hole. 

Inside The Tanks: The Tiger I, part I

The German Tiger tank is perhaps one of the most iconic vehicles of World War II, and at Tank Museum, Bovington in the UK, they have the only Tiger tank in the world that is capable of running under its own power – Tiger 131.

Entry #32 - Building Tristar's Panzer IV Ausf. C

Fender number two is done!  All of the empty tool holders were added and some were slightly damaged.  The single wing nuts were added to both sides (they are a bit over sized but the PE ones were just too teeny tiny).  The decision to make is if I leave the single cleaning rod hanging as pictured below. 

Entry #31 - Building Tristar's Panzer IV Ausf. C

Quick update.  One unique item to my Ausf. C is that the spare track is stored up front like on later Panzer IV's.  I used some spare brackets from a Brummbar kit.  I also had to use tracks from the kit since Modelkasten could not bother to include a single spare one.  I did my best to sand down the guide horns to match the Modelkasten track (not a single spare! end of rate!).  

Tutorial - Creating Fresh Engine Oil Stains and Grease Effects

Entry #30 - Building Tristar's Panzer IV Ausf. C

Starting working on the tool holders, clamps, etc. on one fender.  It is a bit faster not fitting them to the actual tools but still time consuming.  I also wanted to add a bit of realism by bending some at odd angles or cutting brackets to make it look broken / rusted.  

The one lone tack was added as it appears on the original.  The wingnuts will be added later once I can figure which ones I like. 

Entry #29 - Building Tristar's Panzer IV Ausf. C

Work on the fender continues.  For some reason Voyager did not include posts for the fender spring.  However, there was a hole in the front part of the fender (see green arrow).  This is supposed to be where the clip is to installed, but I decided to use it for the spring.  I had to cut some brass round rod and solder them in place.  I had to drill a hole for the lower post.  I then used some thin wire for the spring.  (Note, the front post should actually be sitting a bit higher on fender) 

The clip was then glued in below the post.  The front portion of the fender was glued to main fender and then the hinges were installed.  Additional rivets were installed.     

I decided to start adding the details to the fender, first up is the headlights.  I used the old fender as a guide for placement of the headlight and bracket.  The headlight wire was replaced with brass rod round. 

Entry #28 - Building Tristar's Panzer IV Ausf. C

Take Two....Hallelujah!  The Panzer has fenders, again!  After shaving off approximately a millimeter or two on the underneath of the upper hull, the fenders were glued back on.    

I am not 100% happy, I wish I could have gotten the fenders a bit higher but I pushed them as far as possible.  I should have added more of a spacer between the upper and lower hulls when they were apart.  Oh well, time to move on.   

Moment of truth....it looks like the bent fender will clear the sprocket wheel and tracks.  

How to create mud / dust effects with chipping fluid

Entry #27 - Building Tristar's Panzer IV Ausf. C

The rework on the fenders continues.  On the bright side, I am doing some additional work that is easier with the fenders off. 

Anyway, one issue that has been bugging me for sometime is the detail on the side of gun mantlet.  I initially just added some Archer Fine Transfers weld beads but was never really happy with the way it looked.  I have debated different ways to fix the issue but have never come up a viable solution until now.

Below is a good example of how it supposed to look. 

I had ordered Voyager's update set (PE 35086) mainly for the tool clamps that will be needed.  While looking at instructions I noticed that they included the a PE piece for the gun manlet. Problem solved.  Below is how it looks with the kit's weld bead.  Looks nice but I was not completely happy with how the PE part sits a bit higher than the weld bead.  So I decided to rework the area. 

I scrapped off the kit detail, glued the PE part in place and then added a plastic rod weld bead that rides along the edge.  I think this looks so much better than what I originally had done.